Walter Massa, in the Colli Tortonesi, or Tortona Hills, of southeast Piemonte is the universally-acknowledged Maestro of Timorasso – the man who rescued the variety from extinction in the 1970s and then, through relentless experimentation and effort in the vineyard and in the cellar, brought it to prominence as one of the great white wines of Italy. “Derthona” is the old Roman name for the city of Tortona; Massa and some other producers use it as a designation for their 100% timorasso wines. Piccolo Derthona is Walter Massa’s entry-level timorasso (cf. Petit Chablis), from his younger vines, picked earlier, and without skin contact. 12.5% alcohol. Like all of his timorassos, this one is a distinctive and delectable study in contrasts: richer fruits with great minerality and cleansing acidity. Drink it with seafood (including squid ink pasta), spicy dishes, and richer dishes like risotto.
