Piero Brunet is an endlessly energetic and charismatic grower in the village of Morgex, in northwest Italy's Vallée d'Aoste. Vineyards here and in the adjacent village of Le Salle, just below Mont Blanc, are among the highest-altitude in Europe: 1000-1200 meters (3,300-3,900 feet). The indigenous grape variety here is the high-acid, cold-resistant prié, a.k.a. prié blanc. Piero organically farms half a hectare of it in several tiny, terraced plots and makes a couple hundred cases of wine each year. This is an alpinissimo white - it's like drinking a glacier, with some mountain herbs sprinkled on top. 12% alcohol. Drink it as an aperitif or after a mountain hike. It’s excellent with herby pastas and one of the few wines that pairs well with sea urchin / uni (thanks to Gianfranco Paterlini of Acquerello for this bit of wisdom).
