Oszkár Maurer is a celebrated natural winegrower and maker in Subotica, Serbia - just south of the border with Hungary. He farms organically and bottles his wines unfined and unfiltered with no additions, including sulfites (ØØ). Maurer’s Bakator 1909 comes from ungrafted, bush-trained vines planted 115 years ago. The 2022 vintage had 15% healthy botrytis (noble rot) at harvest, was macerated with the skins overnight, and was then fermented in stainless steel for six months. The wine is light amber in the glass, with remarkable concentration, savoriness, and depth. It’s bone dry, despite being just 10.6% alcohol. This is a more serious, elegant Maurer wine that nonetheless retains brightness and easy drinkability.