2021 I Custodi Pistus

Mario Paoluzi created I Custodi in 2007, after befriending Mount Etna guru Salvo Foti, who took him to a vineyard that was for sale. I Custodi is a member of Foti’s I Vigneri (the vineyard workers) consorzio, which provides a team of vineyard workers who are expert at tending Etna’s old bush-trained vines in volcanic soils and other technical assistance, as well as the group’s bottle with the embossed alberello vine and “I Vigneri 1435” – the year the original I Vigneri winegrowers’ guild was formed in Catania. (Somewhat confusingly, Salvo Foti also calls the wines he makes under his own label “I Vigneri”.) I Custodi practices organic farming in Etna’s sandy, volcanic, mineral-rich soils. Fermentations are indigenous.

Pistus is 80% nerello mascalese and 20% nerello cappuccio from younger vines at 700 meters altitude in Contrada Moganazzi, on the north side of Etna. Farming is certified organic. “Pistus” is Latin for the Italian pestato (tread - by foot). In the old days, the vineyard workers would stomp the grapes and macerate them briefly to make the fresh, easy wine that they drank every day and all day. I Custodi's wine is of course an updated version, pressed with a press, fermented briefly in stainless steel, and aged in concrete and then in bottle. But it's still fresh, lively, thirst-quenching, and delicious, with that unmistakable volcanic crunch. 13% alcohol. It’s a great match with spring vegetables of all kinds. For an Etna twist on an Italian classic, try it with spaghetti with tomato sauce finished with chopped pistachios. (The Bronte area of western Etna is famous for its pistachios, which locals use in many dishes, both savory and sweet.) Also excellent with savory dishes with nutmeg.