Piglio is a town and surrounding wine appellation 75 kilometers east of Rome, in the region of Lazio. The grape variety cesanese is the calling card here and the most important red wine in the orbit of Mamma Roma. Maria Ernesta Berucci is a natural wine producer in Piglio. She calls her methods in the vineyard “holo-homeopathy”, a cousin to biodynamics. Spontaneous fermentation is in concrete tanks and aging in a mix of concrete and larger wooden barrels. The wine is dark-fruited and peppery; robust but not heavy. Try it with grilled meat or - why not? - spaghetti cacio e pepe.