Weingut Bercher is a 10th-generation family estate whose crest dates back to 1457. They are in the Kaiserstuhl, in southern Baden and a stone’s throw from Germany’s border with Alsace. The volcanic hills and warmer climate (for Germany) give rise to remarkable pinots: blanc, gris, and noir. The latter is called spätburgunder in German. It is of course usually made into a red wine, but here we have the rare pleasure of drinking pinot noir as a white wine (“blanc de noirs”). The nose is powerful but nervy, with a smoky minerality that’s characteristic of volcanic soils. In the mouth, the wine has fruit, texture, and lots of salty acidity. So: Fun flavors and great refreshment. Drink it with salmon or avocado toast sprinkled with sea salt.