The Gruber family has been growing wine grapes in the Mittelberg subregion of the Kamptal since 1451. They currently are in conversion to certified organic farming. Their Gemischter Satz (= “mixed set” - in other words, a field blend) comprises a bunch of classic Austrian white varieties, including grüner veltliner, müller thurgau, riesling, grauer burgunder, frühroter veltliner, and sämling. All of these are old vines (“Alte Reben”), planted 70 years ago. The wine has grüner-veltliner-ish aromas of ripe citrus and herbs. In the mouth, there’s old-vine presence, some texture, and remarkable complexity for a wine of relatively modest price. Gemischter Satz often is a cheap-and-cheerful quaffer; this wine offers a good deal more. Drink it with poke or spicy Vietnamese dishes.
