The Roero, just north of the Langhe (Barolo and Barbaresco), is best known these days for the white wine grape arneis. But it also has a long history with nebbiolo. The sandy soils that characterize most of the Roero lend elegance and a lighter touch compared to the denser and more structured wines of the Langhe. The Almondo family grows and makes this lovely and lithesome nebbiolo from three vineyards in their village of Montà d’Alba. It’s aged for 18 months in large, traditional Slavonian casks. The wine is fresh, high-toned, and equally adept at lunch or dinner. It’s gentle enough for salmon and substantial enough for lighter game or pork chops.