Sortevera is a new Canary Islands project from Jonatan García Lima of Suertes del Marqués (one of the top producers on the island of Tenerife) and Canaries viticulturist José Angel Alonso Ramos. The ancient, ungrafted, and organically-farmed vineyards are perched above steep cliffs next to the sea in an area called Taganana, on the northeast side of the island of Tenerife. This part of the island has become famous thanks to the single-parcel wines from Envínate. Sortevera’s Taganana Tinto is a crazy quilt of indigenous Canary Islands varieties, including listán negro, listan gacho, malvasia rosada, negramoll, and vijariego negro. Whole-cluster fermentation and 10 months of aging in old 500-liter barrels lend a Burgundian texture and lift to the wine. The nose suggests smoky, volcanic-tinged red fruits with hints of herbs. On the palate, there’s a dance of fruit, stones, volcanic minerality, acidity, and tannin - all perfectly poised. Drink it in a Burgundy or other large wine glass with the sorts of dishes that you would eat with red Burgundy or a structured cru Beaujolais: mushrooms, duck and other birds, stews. You can age it for 3-5 years.
