2020 Aldinger Spatburgunder GG - Unterturkheimer Gips Marienglas

The Aldinger family has been a force in Fellbach, a large town on the northeast edge of Stuttgart, since 1492 - both as wine coopers and wine-growers. Brothers Hansjörg and Matthias Aldinger now run the show. Their prize vineyard, Untertürkheimer Gips, is a monopole (i.e., owned entirely by the family rather than shared with other growers). For millennia, wine from this vineyard has famously exhibited a distinct minerality. Around 200 years ago, growers working the vines struck upon deep layers of gypsum and decided to mine it. In 1974 the Aldinger family restored this storied spot to its historical calling by replanting vines. The former gypsum mining suggested the name Untertürkheimer Gips - Untertürkheim being the village and Gips the German word for gypsum.

The Aldingers grow both riesling and pinot noir in Untertürkheimer Gips. From the former they make a splendid riesling and from the latter this wine. Because both are dry wines from Germany’s equivalent of a grand cru vineyard site, they are entitled to the Grosses Gewächs (“Great Growths”) designation. The pinot noir sees cold-maceration with 50% whole grapes, indigenous fermentation in french wooden fermenters, and 15 months of élevage in barriques, 60% of which are new. This is a darker-fruited pinot noir, with aromatic herbs and a discreet smokiness. The structure is led by acidity, with finely-woven tannins completing the picture. There is great texture and length. This wine is a deft partner to grilled pork, fowl (including game birds), mushroom stroganoff, or roasted root vegetables. It is perfectly satisfying now but should continue to evolve positively for at least five years.