This wine is all furmint, the most noble variety in Hungary and the backbone of most Tokaji, whether dry or sweet. Tokaj native Sarolta Bárdos created this small, family winery in 1999. She is both part of the new generation leading the quality renaissance in Tokaj and one of a long tradition of female winemakers in Hungary, where the men historically worked in the vineyards and the women ran the cellars. Her vineyards are certified organic, and this wine comes from the single vineyard Barakonyi, which has been officially recognized as first class (premier cru, more or less) since 1737. Fermentation and aging are in Hungarian oak barrels. Pear-like, slightly honeyed fruit with an almost icy minerality and a hint of oak. There’s texture, elegance, purity, and length; those who enjoy white Burgundy or restrained California chardonnay will like this a lot (and where could you get those from a premier cru vineyard for $26?!). 13% alcohol. Drink it with richer fish and poultry dishes, pork, spicy enchiladas.