2019 Ronchi di Cialla - Friuli Colli Orientali - CiallaBianco

Several decades ago, Friuli, in northeast Italy, was fashionable in wine circles for its sophisticated, modern expressions of French grape varieties such as sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot. But producers like the Rapuzzi family’s Ronchi di Cialla have brought the region’s undersung indigenous white and red varieties to prominence. Friulano is the best-known white variety, but grapes like ribolla gialla, picolit, and verduzzo (here in a 70-20-10 blend) are for our money more characterful and exciting grapes. The Rapuzzis organically farm their certified biodiversity-friendly vineyards. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts and aging for about a year both happen in used barriques. The producer then ages the wine in bottle for an additional couple of years before releasing it.

The nose is fresh, with just a hint of complexifying age. Lots of non-fruit aromas, like almond and capsicum. In the mouth, the wine is light-to-medium-bodied, with some tertiary (i.e., bottle-age) flavors, but again, the impression is of freshness and complexity. There’s lovely texture and length. Drink it with all creatures of the sea, including creamy seafood soups; egg dishes (including soufflés); or fresh and moderately-aged cheeses.