Peter Dipoli’s sauvignon comes from vines planted on crazy-steep limestone slopes at 1800 to 2000 feet elevation just south of Bolzano, the central city in Alto Adige. Fermentation for 10 days and aging for about nine months both occur in acacia casks, with lees stirring every 10 days for the first three months of aging. No malolactic fermentation. "Volgar" is the name of the vineyard area and comes from the Trentino dialect word "fogolar", meaning fireplace. The wine has fir tree rather than grassy herbaceousness, and redolent citrus with some muskiness. There’s leasy richness and depth of fruit reeled in by Alpine snap. Drink it as a luxurious aperitivo with some speck or other lightly-smoked salumi, canederli/knödel (bread dumplings) or closer-to-home dumplings such as xiaolongbao, and cheesy mountain dishes.
