2019 Moric Sankt Georgener Gruner Veltliner

Roland Velich’s Moric ​​("MOR-itz") project is best known for his remarkable blaufränkisch bottlings, but Velich’s white wines are eually compelling. His St. Georgener (or simply SG*) Grüner Veltliner comes from “vines of a respectable age”, planted in fossil limestone in the Neusiedlersee Hügelland village of St Georgen and farmed organically. The wine is aged in old (Austrian) Stockinger casks. 13.5% alcohol. As importer Stephan Schindler of Winemonger notes, “the signature scents are those of the special soils in which the vines were grown, rather than what we have come to consider the typical varietal character of Gruner Veltiner from our experience with Lower Austria. The wine shows a greater affinity with fine white Burgundy than it does with grüner veltliner from the Danube regions like the Wachau.” Beautiful, aged nose of beeswax, honey, and subtle orchard and stone fruits. On the palate, an entry somewhat reminiscent of aged white Burgundy, followed by a whiplash of taut GV acidity and crazy length. Drink it, slowly and attentively, with käsespätzle, potato goulash, or fettuccine all’alfredo and other creamy dishes.

Note: Producer Roland Velich regularly does battle with the appellation authorities, who consider this wine "atypical" of Grüner Veltliner from St. Georgen. As a result, he frequently ends up leaving ST. GEORGENER or SANKT GEORGEN off the label. In this vintage years, he has redubbed the wine "STILL A SERIOUS WINE, STILL A GORGEOUS PLACE"