2019 I Custodi Etna Bianco - Ante

Mario Paoluzi created I Custodi in 2007, after befriending Mount Etna guru Salvo Foti, who took him to a vineyard that was for sale. I Custodi is a member of Foti’s I Vigneri (the vineyard workers) consorzio, which provides a team of vineyard workers who are expert at tending Etna’s old bush-trained vines in volcanic soils and other technical assistance, as well as the group’s bottle with the embossed alberello vine and “I Vigneri 1435” – the year the original I Vigneri winegrowers’ guild was formed in Catania. (Somewhat confusingly, Salvo Foti also calls the wines he makes under his own label “I Vigneri”.) I Custodi practices certified organic farming in Etna’s sandy, volcanic, mineral-rich soils. Fermentations are indigenous.

 

Ante is 90% carricante, with grecanico, minnella and other local varieties. While Mount Etna's red wines get much of the attention, Carricante is one of Italy's most noble varieties, and certainly among the best half a dozen or so white varieties. Ante comes from a 750-meter high vineyard in Contrada Puntalazzo on the eastern side of Etna - as are many of Etna's Carricante vineyards - closer to and with more influence from the sea. Fermentation and aging for a year in stainless steel. 12.5% alc. Ante is the inverse of Etna, as well as the last four letters of Carricante. It's terrific with pesce crudo/sushi, as well as with spring vegetables.