Kadarka is a red variety that’s planted throughout Eastern Europe and that has become a customer favorite at PMW in the past year. Most of the wines are light in body and alcohol, fresh, spicy, and good with a chill. This one, from Bott Frigyes and his son Frici in Slovakia, right on the border with Hungary and halfway between Budapest and Bratislava, is darker and more serious, while retaining freshness and spice. Organic farming and indigenous fermentation. Half of the grapes were destemmed and half were left whole-cluster, a technique often used with pinot noir in Burgundy and elsewhere to lend complexity, structure, and herbal and spicy notes. The two parts were then aged together in 500-liter oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13% alcohol. Dark fruit, peppery spice, and real complexity, but without heaviness. Drink it with wild mushrooms, duck, borscht, or Yotam Ottolenghi's black pepper tofu.