Walter Massa, in the Colli Tortonesi, or Tortona Hills, of southeast Piemonte is the universally-acknowledged Maestro of Timorasso – the man who rescued the variety from extinction in the 1970s and then, through relentless experimentation and effort in the vineyard and in the cellar, brought it to prominence as one of the great white wines of Italy. “Derthona” is the old Roman name for the city of Tortona; Massa and some other producers use it as a designation for their 100% timorasso wines. Derthona is Walter Massa’s flagship timorasso. It comes from a variety of parcels around Massa's tiny village of Monleale. Two days of skin contact and a full year of aging in a combination of stainless steel and concrete vats. Like all of his timorassos, this one is a distinctive and delectable study in contrasts: richer fruits with great minerality and cleansing acidity. Drink it with seafood (including squid ink pasta), spicy dishes, and richer dishes like risotto.