Gabriel Pisano is a fourth-generation winegrower who studied oenology and then worked at wineries in Chile, California, South Africa, and Spain before returning to Uruguay to start his “bodega experimental” in the town of Progreso, a little north of the capital, Montevideo. Tannat was introduced into Uruguay in 1870 by Basque immigrants and has become the country’s most celebrated and widely planted variety. Gabriel’s tannat ferments in stainless steel tanks, with about two weeks of maceration, followed by 12-18 months in 60% new and 40% second-use barrels from Burgundy. The wine smells of ripe red and black fruits, with delicate floral notes and a discrete kiss of oak. There’s a good balance of tannin and acidity in the mouth, with lively freshness and a lingering finish. Drink it with lamb, game, wild mushrooms, or aged cheeses. Or age it for 5-10 years and be one of the first on your block to break out a serious, aged Uruguayan tannat!