This wine is from the Valle d’Aosta, or Vallée d’Aoste in French: This is a bilingual Italian region wedged into the Alps between Piemonte, France, and Switzerland. The valley, with Mont Blanc at its western end, is a great place to ski, hike, or lounge in the thermal baths. It’s also chock full of interesting local grapes that you won’t see anywhere else, or perhaps at most in a few equally remote valleys in Switzerland. Producer Elio Ottin obtained his first vineyards in 1989 and began to bottle wines with his name on the labels in 2007. Farming of the 700-meter high mountain vineyard is practicing organic. His fumin is aged in large, used barrels for 12 months. 13.5% alcohol. Fumin is perhaps the Valle d’Aosta’s analogue of syrah (dark fruit, somewhat floral and herbal and at times even briney), but in a brighter, lighter, Alpine frame. This one is savory, dark fruit with some olive-y brininess and a pleasingly bitter twist in the finish. Alpine acidity and just a hint of grip. Drink this mountain wine with barbecue, fondue, polenta, or medium- and long-aged cheeses.