Switzerland has 200 native grape varieties and a couple dozen wine appellations scattered all over the country, but we don’t see much Swiss wine in the U.S. That’s in part because the Swiss are thirsty and export less than 2% of their production! Thankfully, Paul Duroussay of Pierreclos Imports has turned us onto Ludovic Zermatten’s Z-Vins project in the Valais appellation, east of Lake Geneva. Petite arvine is the most noble white grape in the Valais, as well as across the border in Valle d’Aosta (northwest Italy). It makes wines of substance and texture, balanced by nervy acidity and saltiness. Zermatten’s petite arvine comes from certified organically farmed vineyards and is fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. It’s a complex and complete cornucopia: orchard and stone fruits, herbs, flowers, and minerals. This is a textural wine, yet with plenty of zip. Drink it with Hapuku Fish Market's tuna poke or gnocchi with Fontina cheese.
