In 1870 Salvador Urbina moved to the village of Cuzcurrita de Río Tirón, 10 kilometers west of Haro (the wine capital of Rioja). There he started making wines with long aging in barrels and then bottles, the traditional Rioja way. Today the fourth generation leads the bodega. Their Rioja Crianza is 95% tempranillo, with a dash each of mazuelo and graciano. Here is the unmistakable smell of old, venerable Spanish bodegas: earth and old barrels and long-aging wine. This 11-year-old exemplar has incense, spices, and herbs along with the red fruits. And there’s plenty of freshness supporting its tertiary (aged) flavors. Drink it with lamb, grilled portobello, or sheep's milk cheeses.
