Here in California, planting and making wines from "unusual" grape varieties (unusual for here) continues apace. Albariño has benefited enormously from this trend; we’re now tasting a lot more compelling California albariños, and at prices that often are competitive with their Spanish and Portuguese compañeros. Edna Valley is a Central Coast American Viticultural Area just south of San Luis Obispo, within the broader SLO Coast AVA. The valley’s orientation and proximity to the Pacific Ocean creates a natural funnel for marine fog and ocean breezes, making it one of the coolest-climate appellations in the state. In the early 1970s, John Niven’s grandfather was among the first to plant wine grapevines in Edna Valley. Today John and his wife, Lucy, make white wines from vineyards there. Their albariño is salty, stony fun - a wine with a briny, windswept, seaside vibe. Drink it with shellfish, including raw oysters, or pasta with basil pesto.