Sizzano is one of the seven specific DOCs (appellations) in Alto Piemonte, the northern part of Piemonte, nestled next to the Alps. As in the Langhe farther south, nebbiolo is king here, though often blended with other local red varieties. In this more northerly and almost-Alpine location, nebbiolo takes on a fresher, gentler, and lower-alcohol character. Villa Guelpa’s Sizzano is 70% nebbiolo and 30% vespolina (a relative of nebbiolo) grown in sandy alluvial soils. It undergoes spontaneous fermentation, 14 days of maceration, and 24 months of aging in 2000-liter oak barrels. This is high-toned, floral nebbiolo with extra peppery spice from the vespolina. It’s a wine of finesse more than power, with prominent acidity and moderate tannins. Try it with cacio e pepe or black pepper beef.