The Ribeira Sacra is a spectacularly steep set of river valleys in lush northwest Spain studded with tiny, terraced, slate-and-granite-rich parcels of old vines. Many of those vines showcase the red grape mencía, but there’s also some godello, a local white variety that combines texture and racy acidity. Adegas Guímaro is Pedro Rodríguez’s practicing-organic family winery in the Ribeira Sacra. His blanco is majority godello with a small percentage of other local white varieties, all fermented together and aged in stainless steel tanks. Most of the vines are over 50 years old. The wine suggests pear and citrus, tweaked by a pleasing musky note. The zippy acidity and 12.5% alcohol temper that fruitiness and lead to a refreshing finish. Godello is an able chardonnay substitute, and this one would be particularly good with creamy cheeses and sauces or crab.
