2022 Antonio Madeira Dao Branco - Vinhas Velhas

António Madeira grew up in France and worked as an engineer there before moving back to his grandparents’ village in the Dão (north-central Portugal) in 2017. In a short eight years he has established himself as a star producer in the region. His Branco Vinhas Velhas (old-vine white) is a blend of about 20 indigenous white varieties, including siria, fernão pires, bical, encruzado, and cerceal. The vines are 50 to 120 years old and grow at 600 meters in granite soils. Spontaneous fermentation was followed by a year of aging, half in 500-liter French and Austrian oak barrels and half in stainless steel tanks. The wine was bottled without fining and filtration and with little to no added SO2. As with all of António’s wines, there’s a natural vibe to the aromas and flavors (including a hint of reduction), without any funk or lack of precision. It tastes like smoke-licked rocks, with eye-opening acidity and complexity and length to burn. As wine critic Neal Martin observed, “this is as good as any white Burgundy Premier Cru you want to put in front of me, and likewise, whilst it dishes out pleasure, it will evolve over the next 12 to 15 years.” Give the wine some air - in a decanter and/or a large stem - and drink it with cod (salt-cured or not), a rich fish stew, or vegetables in a cream sauce.