2020 Luis Rodriguez Ribeiro blanco - Os Pasas

Luis Rodríguez farms 200 tiny vineyard parcels scattered over six hectares in the Ribeiro region of southern Galicia, very near Spain’s border with Portugal. The soils are decomposed, sandy granite. Luis is the acknowledged maestro of this storied cool-climate wine region (it rains a lot in Galicia!). He makes stunningly elegant, fresh yet age-worthy wines from a raft of local white and red varieties, many of which aren’t found outside of Galicia. The white wines in particular are among the best in Spain. If you’re fond of the great whites from Burgundy, the Loire, Germany, Austria, or Mount Etna, then Ribeiro should be on your personal wine map.

'Os Pasás' is majority treixadura (the defining white variety of Ribeiro), with albariño, lado, and torrontés. The wine ferments spontaneously and then ages for about a year in stainless steel tanks. The nose is deep and stony, showing tart orchard fruits and a hint of spice. The wine has great texture, well-balanced acidity, and minerally length. Drink it in a larger stem with seafood (especially shellfish), green vegetables (including pimientos de padrón or shishito peppers), or a young cheese. The wine is perfectly complete now, but if you like aged white wines, it should repay cellaring for three to seven years.