Bierzo is a wine region in northwest Castilla y León, near the border with Galicia. It’s best known for powerful, mountain-grown mencías. But the white wines, from the local variety godello, can be equally compelling. They combine texture and racy acidity. Verónica Ortega is a transplant from Cádiz, in Andalucía, whose enchantment with mencía drew her to Bierzo. She has been making her own wines since 2012. 'La Llorona' is 100% godello from organically-grown 35-year-old vines growing in sandy soils at 500 meters. The fully-destemmed grapes were macerated overnight before spontaneous fermentation, mostly in barrels. Aging was for nine months in 600, 500 and 225-liter barrels. The nose suggests ripe orchard and citrus fruits with discrete herbal and floral tones, plus a flinty note that emerges with air. In the mouth, taut acidity and minerality temper the rich, expressive fruit. Drink it, not too cold, in a larger stem with ceviche, guacamole, or bacalao.
