Luis Seabra, former winemaker for Dirk Niepoort, is one of the leaders of the dry wine revolution that’s been sweeping the Douro (i.e., Port country) in the past two decades. And he is perhaps the leader in identifying and vinifying individual terroirs in the Douro. 'Xisto Ilimitado Branco' (Unlimited Schist White) is in effect Luis’s village white - a blend of organically-farmed native Douro varieties rabigato, codega, gouveio (godello), and viosinho from 30-45 year old vines planted in mica schist at 500-600 meters elevation in the Cima Corgo subzone of the central Douro. Indigenous fermentation and a year of aging on the lees without battonage both happen in 90% used barrels and 10% in stainless steel. 12% alcohol. Chiseled stones with a squirt of lemon, a whiff of smoke, and great acidity; despite the lack of emphasis on fruit, the wine still comes across as generous and easy to love. Drink it with seafood of all stripes, roast chicken, or a Portuguese stew of clams, linguiça, and tomatoes.
