António Madeira grew up in France and worked as an engineer there before moving back to his grandparents’ village in the Dão (north-central Portugal) in 2017. He has rapidly established himself as a star producer in the region. His branco is a field blend of 20-ish varieties, led by 80% encruzado + bical. Spontaneous fermentation occurs in barrels, and aging is for 14 months in a mix of stainless steel tanks (70%) and used barrels (30%). The sulfur addition is tiny (4 g/L). There’s a natural vibe to the aromas and flavors, without any funk or lack of precision. The wine has tart stone fruits with spices, herbs, and grains, plus a tangy, saline spine. It’s proudly unfiltered and does have some sediment, so pour gently at the end of the bottle. Drink it with bacalhau, grilled fish, or fresh cheeses - for example Queijo Serra da Estrela, which is from the same area as Madeira’s wines.
