2012 Durdon Bouval Champagne Extra Brut - Millesime

Husband and wife Ludovic and Sandie Durdon are fourth-generation winegrowers in the heart of the Vallée de la Marne. They converted the family vineyards to organic farming, first certified in 2013 - a relative rarity in Champagne. The Extra Brut Millésime comes from 50% chardonnay and 50% pinot meunier vines that are 30 to 50 years old, growing in clay-limestone soils. Fermentation was in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine then spent a full seven years on the lees in bottle before being disgorged, and then aged another four years under the cork.

Great aged Champagne is a special case of a special wine, where the vibrant acidity and minerality of the younger wine is transformed by lees and further bottle aging into something more subtle and complex. The acidity and perlage (bubbliness) soften, the brioche-y / grilled-bread character becomes more earthy, and bright fruit mellows into a more savory and sometimes herbal character.

Although you could happily drink this Champagne as an aperitif, it really shines as a gastronomic wine. Pour it into a larger stem and have it with sushi, shrimp bisque, soft-scrambled eggs, or a terrific triple-crème cheese.