In 2012 András Bóka, with his wife, children, grandmother, and brother, began recuperating an old family tradition of winegrowing and making in south-central Hungary that was interrupted by government land confiscation after World War II. They now farm 1.5 certified organic hectares. Kadarka grows all over Central and Eastern Europe and has enjoyed a renaissance since the fall of the Iron Curtain. This wine is a different take on the grape, in large part due to its being made from the Jakab/Olasz kadarka clone. This clone’s thicker skins and darker fruit give a more structured, powerful wine. Bóka’s Birtok Kadarka macerated with the skins for six days and then aged in stainless steel without filtration or additions (ØØ). The nose is a swirl of crunchy red and black fruits. This wine is on the robust side for kadarka, but still graceful and medium-bodied. It’s tangy, with moderate tannins and gentle alcohol (<12%). It is awfully tasty with smoked meats or baba ganoush, or anything with paprika. If you’re curious about the snowflake label and/or want to know more about kadarka clones, read importer Danch & Granger’s description here.
