Zoltán Demeter is a maestro of furmint and its complex terroirs in the Tokaj region of eastern Hungary. Birtok (“estate” in Hungarian) is a blend of three estate vineyards, fermented and aged in stainless steel. The wine is just faintly fruity; it’s more about the herbs, stones, and smoke. In the mouth, it’s a textural wine, as almost all Tokaji is, with a beguiling push-pull of weight and acidity. This is a great introduction to Hungary’s most noble variety, grown in its most historic region, and made by one of its top producers. It’s delicious with picante enchiladas and other spicy foods from around the world. Or try it with blue cheese as a rewarding way to end a meal. One caveat: the capsule is metal and sharp - cut and remove it with care, lest you end up a wounded wine soldier! [For more about Tokaji, and dry Tokaji in particular, read our article The Dry White Wines of Hungary - Part 1: Tokaj.]
