Gernot and Victoria Schreiner practice certified organic farming in their hometown of Rust, on the western shores of Lake Neusiedl. This wine is from a parcel called Gemärk (limestone, sand, and sandstone). It’s aged in large old oak casks for 14 months and is classic Burgenland blaufränkisch: Inky black and blue fruits without heaviness and with a pleasing bitter hint. Lively, fresh, and fun, yet with a serious, elegant side. 12.4% alcohol.